Repair clothes: four methods using a sewing machine

Match the repair to the damage: back and darn a small hole, resew an open seam, reinforce a thin area over a wider surface, and use the appropriate presser foot for a hem or zip. Test the fabric, needle and stitch in an inconspicuous place first.

Repairing clothes with a sewing machine not only saves money, but also values our resources.

Which repair suits which type of damage?

Repairs can genuinely avoid new purchases. WRAP's Displacement Rates Untangled report gives an average displacement rate of 82.2% for the repair models studied. Its CO2e examples are modelled values for specific garments, not a blanket value for every repair.

1. Back and darn holes with a sewing machine

Cut a matching patch with rounded corners that covers the entire weakened area. Place it behind the hole and secure it. From the right side, sew short rows forwards and backwards along the original grain. Matching thread keeps the repair discreet; contrasting or effect thread makes it intentionally visible.

On stretch fabrics, the patch and stitch must move with the garment. For small damage without sewing, a repair patch approved for the fabric may be useful. Always follow its care and application instructions.

For an intentionally visible repair, our patch tutorial shows how to make your own embroidered badge.

There are many great ways to repair clothes with a sewing machine.

Mend holes without sewing or ironing – with Prym Rub on Patches.

2. Shorten, lengthen or take in trousers

Try on the trousers with the shoes you intend to wear, pin the new length and measure both legs. Unpick only as much of the old hem as necessary. Use a suitable jeans needle for denim; a universal needle may suit light woven fabric. Sew slowly over thick seam intersections and keep the presser foot as level as possible.

To lengthen trousers, first check how much fabric is available in the hem allowance. Old fold or wear lines may remain visible after unpicking. When taking a garment in, blend the new side line smoothly into the existing seam.

3. Reinforce thin areas

Reinforce the whole threadbare area, not only the visible hole. A soft iron-on material can support it from the wrong side; a sewn fabric patch is an alternative. Test the heat, adhesive and handle in a hidden place, and round the reinforcement to avoid a hard stress edge.

4. Sew hems and zips with the right foot

A narrow hem foot rolls a fine hem, a zipper foot stitches close to the teeth, and a binding attachment guides suitable tape. The foot must match the machine, shank and task. Practise on a scrap first; a specialist foot does not replace accurate measuring, suitable thread or the correct needle.

Sparkling repair look with sparkle yarn. A hole becomes a cute detail.

Prepare the repair step by step

1. Wash the garment and inspect the damage in good light.
2. Remove loose threads only if this does not weaken a supporting structure.
3. Test the material, needle, thread and stitch on a sample.
4. Secure the damage without distortion and work from sound fabric towards the weak area.
5. Inspect both sides and then care for the garment according to its label.

Shortening clothes made easy with the rolled hem foot for the sewing machine.                                                                                 

Five practical tools to get started

Many repairs need only a precise seam ripper, suitable jeans and universal needles, reliable sewing thread and, optionally, an effect thread for visible mending. Choose specialist backings, patches and presser feet for the individual project rather than buying a generic set.

When a professional alteration service is safer

Professional help may be safer and ultimately less expensive for valuable fabrics, leather garments, coated performance clothing, severely damaged zips or alterations to lined garments. If you are unsure, do not begin unpicking until you understand the construction.